The Azores: Portugal's Atlantic Paradise You Need to Visit
I watched steam rise from the ground as locals buried pots of stew in volcanic soil for their traditional cozido lunch. The Azores aren't just Portugal's best-kept secret—they're a world apart.
I'll never forget my first morning in Furnas on São Miguel island, watching locals dig steaming pots of cozido das Furnas from the volcanic ground at Lagoa das Furnas. The entire scene felt surreal—families gathering around natural hot springs while sulfur steam drifted across the lake like morning fog. This wasn't the Portugal I thought I knew.
The Azores hit me like a revelation. These nine volcanic islands, scattered 900 miles west of mainland Portugal, feel more like a secret world than a European destination. I'd flown into João Paulo II Airport expecting quaint Portuguese charm, but found myself in something far more wild and wonderful—a place where you can swim in crater lakes, bathe in natural hot springs, and eat the best seafood I've encountered anywhere in the Atlantic.
What makes the Azores extraordinary isn't just their dramatic landscapes, though those crater lakes and thermal valleys will leave you speechless. It's how untouched everything feels. I spent two weeks island-hopping and rarely encountered the crowds that plague mainland Europe. Instead, I found genuine warmth from locals who seemed genuinely surprised and delighted that I'd traveled so far to visit their home.
My biggest surprise? The food scene rivals anything I've experienced in Lisbon or Porto. Maybe it's the pristine Atlantic waters, or the volcanic soil that produces incredible vegetables, but every meal felt like a discovery. From tiny tasca taverns in Angra do Heroísmo to family-run restaurants overlooking Sete Cidades, I ate better here than almost anywhere else in Portugal.
Where to Eat in the Azores
The food scene across these islands completely caught me off guard—I expected simple fare but discovered some of the most memorable meals of my travels. Here's where to eat your way through paradise.
Tony's Restaurant in Furnas serves the island's famous cozido das Furnas, a stew cooked underground using volcanic heat for six hours. The beef falls apart at the touch of a fork, and watching them unearth your lunch from the steaming ground is unforgettable. Around €15 per person for the full experience.
Taberna Real on Rua de São João in Ponta Delgada completely changed my understanding of Azorean cuisine. Chef Carlos creates modern interpretations of traditional dishes using local ingredients I'd never heard of. Try the lapas (limpets) grelhadas—they taste like the essence of the Atlantic. Expect €35-45 per person for dinner.
Mariserra in Angra do Heroísmo on Terceira island serves what locals told me is the best seafood on the island. I ordered the caldeirada de peixe without knowing what to expect and received a fish stew so good I returned the next night. Fresh catch varies daily, but budget around €25 per person.
Casa do Bacalhau on Rua Machado dos Santos in Horta (Faial island) specializes in codfish prepared seventeen different ways. The bacalhau com natas here surpasses anything I've had on the mainland. Around €18-22 per person.
Quinta dos Açores near Sete Cidades focuses entirely on local beef and dairy—their alcatra (slow-cooked beef in wine) melts like butter. The location overlooking the twin lakes makes it even more special. Budget €28-35 per person.
Don't miss the island's incredible cheese. Stop at any local market and try queijo da ilha—the aged varieties have a sharpness that pairs perfectly with local wines.
Where to Stay in the Azores
Accommodation here ranges from family-run guesthouses to luxury resorts, but I found the best experiences came from staying local rather than international chains.
Budget (under €40/night): Residencial Mirasol in Ponta Delgada offers clean rooms and the most helpful owner I encountered anywhere in Portugal. Maria runs the place like she's hosting family, providing detailed maps and restaurant recommendations that saved my entire trip.
Mid-range (€60–120/night): Casa Hintze Ribeiro in Furnas puts you walking distance from the thermal springs and volcanic cooking demonstrations. The traditional Azorean architecture and included breakfast featuring local cheeses and fresh bread make this my top recommendation for first-time visitors.
Splurge (€180+/night): Pedras do Mar Resort & Spa on the north coast of São Miguel justifies every euro with its infinity pool overlooking the Atlantic and spa treatments using local thermal water. The restaurant alone makes this worth the splurge—I had the best meal of my entire trip here.
Top Things to Do in the Azores
Every island offers something unique, but these experiences define what makes the Azores unforgettable.
Sete Cidades Crater Lakes on São Miguel island provide the most photographed view in the Azores, but hiking down to kayak on the twin lakes turns sightseeing into adventure. The water stays surprisingly warm, and paddling between the blue and green lakes feels like exploring an alien world.
Furnas Valley combines natural hot springs, volcanic cooking demonstrations, and some of the best hiking on São Miguel. I spent an entire day here soaking in Terra Nostra Botanical Garden's thermal pool (€8 entry) and watching locals prepare lunch in the volcanic soil.
Algar do Carvão on Terceira island lets you descend into an actual volcanic chimney. The 40-meter descent feels like entering the earth's core, and the underground lake at the bottom reflects light in ways that photographs can't capture.
Capelinhos Volcano on Faial island erupted as recently as 1957, creating a lunar landscape that NASA used for Apollo mission training. The visitor center explains the eruption's impact through compelling multimedia, but walking across the ash fields provides the real impact.
Caldeira Velha offers free thermal pools fed by natural hot springs, surrounded by lush vegetation that creates a tropical paradise feeling. Most tourists miss this spot, focusing instead on the paid facilities in Furnas.
Whale watching from Vila Franca do Campo provides encounters with sperm whales, dolphins, and seasonal migrations. The Azores sit on major whale migration routes, making sightings almost guaranteed from April through October.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: TAP Air Portugal flies direct to João Paulo II Airport (PDL) on São Miguel from Boston, Toronto, and several European cities. SATA Azores Airlines connects the islands, with flights between São Miguel and other islands costing €80-150. Book inter-island flights early—they fill up quickly in summer.
Getting around locally: Rental cars offer the most freedom and cost €25-35 daily for economy cars. Island roads are well-maintained but narrow and winding. Public buses (€1.50-3 per ride) serve major towns but run infrequently. Taxis exist but charge premium rates—expect €20-30 for short distances.
Local currency: Euro (€). Current exchange rate approximately €0.92 to $1 USD. Credit cards work at hotels and restaurants, but many small establishments prefer cash. ATMs are common in larger towns but scarce in rural areas.
Average daily budget: Budget travelers: €50-70 (hostels, local restaurants, public transport). Mid-range: €90-130 (nice hotels, car rental, restaurant dinners). Comfortable: €150-200+ (luxury accommodations, activities, wine with dinner).
Safety tips: Weather changes rapidly—pack layers even in summer. Coastal paths can become dangerous during storms—respect warning signs. Some hiking trails lack clear markings—download offline maps or hire local guides for remote areas.
Best Time to Visit the Azores
Peak Season
July and August bring the warmest weather (22-26°C/72-79°F) and the most tourists. Hotel prices double, rental cars become scarce, and popular attractions feel crowded. Perfect for swimming and whale watching, but expect to share those crater lake views.
Shoulder Season (Recommended)
May-June and September-October offer the perfect balance. Weather remains warm enough for outdoor activities (18-24°C/64-75°F), but crowds thin dramatically. Hotel rates drop 30-40%, and you'll often have hiking trails to yourself. September brings grape harvest season with special food and wine events.
Avoid
December through February brings frequent rain, rough seas that cancel inter-island flights, and temperatures around 15°C/59°F. Many restaurants and attractions close or reduce hours. March and April can be lovely but unpredictable—I experienced four seasons in one day during an April visit.
My last morning in the Azores, I sat at a café on Ponta Delgada's marina watching fishing boats return with their catch. The owner brought me coffee without being asked—after a week of morning visits, I'd become part of the routine. That's what the Azores gave me that I hadn't expected: a sense of belonging in a place that feels removed from the rest of the world.
These islands changed my understanding of what European travel could be. No crowds fighting for photos, no tourist menus in five languages, no feeling that I was just another visitor consuming an experience. Instead, I found a place where volcanic landscapes meet genuine hospitality, where the best meal comes from watching locals cook lunch in the ground, and where the biggest decision each day was which crater lake to explore. The Azores aren't just worth visiting—they're worth protecting. Go soon, go respectfully, and prepare to leave a piece of your heart in the middle of the Atlantic.
A former backpacker turned travel writer, James specializes in off-the-beaten-path destinations across Asia and South America. He has lived out of a carry-on for the better part of five years.