Bagan Myanmar: 2,000 Temples & My Hot Air Balloon Adventure
I watched 2,000 ancient temples emerge from morning mist as my hot air balloon drifted silently over Myanmar's most extraordinary landscape. Here's everything you need to know about Bagan's magic.
At 5:47 AM, I was 300 feet above the Irrawaddy River plains, watching the sun paint 2,000 ancient temples in liquid gold. The silence from our hot air balloon basket was broken only by the occasional burst of the burner above us. Below, the archaeological zone of Bagan stretched endlessly—a sea of red brick stupas, pagodas, and temples scattered across 26 square miles like forgotten chess pieces.
I'd arrived in Bagan two days earlier on the overnight bus from Yangon, my neck stiff and my expectations admittedly low after the 10-hour journey. But stepping off that cramped vehicle onto Anawrahta Road in New Bagan, I knew immediately this place would rewrite everything I thought I knew about Myanmar.
Bagan isn't just an archaeological site—it's a living, breathing testament to human devotion. Between the 11th and 13th centuries, the rulers and wealthy residents of the Pagan Kingdom built over 10,000 Buddhist temples and pagodas here. Wars, earthquakes, and time have claimed most of them, but what remains is staggering. This is Cambodia's Angkor Wat without the crowds, Egypt's Valley of the Kings with actual spiritual energy still pulsing through its stones.
What surprised me most wasn't the sheer number of temples, though. It was discovering that many of these sacred sites are still active places of worship, where I'd find fresh flowers, burning incense, and elderly Myanmar women in colorful longyi skirts quietly praying at dawn.
Where to Eat in Bagan
Bagan's food scene reflects its role as both an ancient spiritual center and a growing tourist destination, with temple-side tea shops serving alongside restaurants catering to international palates.
Sunset Garden Restaurant dominates the dining conversation here, and for good reason. Their Myanmar curry set—a traditional spread of mild pork curry, pickled vegetables, and fragrant rice—costs around 8,000 kyat ($4 USD) and comes with temple views from their terrace. I ordered it three nights running.
Shwe Na Di Restaurant on Thiripyitsaya Street serves the best mohinga I found in Bagan. This fish-based noodle soup is Myanmar's national breakfast dish, and their version—thick with lemongrass and banana stem—runs just 2,000 kyat ($1 USD) per bowl.
Star Beam Bistro surprised me with excellent wood-fired pizza and cold Myanmar Beer for around 12,000 kyat ($6 USD) per person. Sometimes you need familiar comfort food after a long day of temple climbing.
Bagan House Restaurant specializes in traditional Burmese cuisine in a beautiful colonial-era building. Their tea leaf salad (lahpet thohk) was tangy and addictive at 5,000 kyat ($2.50 USD).
For street food, head to the small stalls clustered around Nyaung-U Market in the early morning. Vendors sell fresh samosas, steamed buns, and sweet coconut rice wrapped in banana leaves for under 1,000 kyat each.
Where to Stay in Bagan
I stayed in three different areas during my week in Bagan, and location matters more here than in most destinations.
Budget (under $30/night): Ostello Bello Bagan in New Bagan became my home base. This Italian-run hostel offers clean dorms for $15 USD and private rooms for $25 USD, plus they rent e-bikes for temple exploring. The rooftop bar became my evening ritual.
Mid-range ($50–100/night): Bagan Lodge sits perfectly positioned between Old Bagan and New Bagan on Anawrahta Road. Their traditional Myanmar-style bungalows cost around $75 USD per night, and I could walk to major temples while still having modern amenities. The pool was a lifesaver during hot afternoons.
Splurge ($150+/night): Aureum Palace Hotel & Resort offers luxury tented accommodations with private temple views for around $200 USD per night. If you're doing the hot air balloon experience anyway, this place makes the entire Bagan adventure feel like a National Geographic expedition.
Top Things to Do in Bagan
Bagan's 2,000+ temples could keep you busy for months, but I found these experiences essential during my week exploring the archaeological zone.
Hot Air Balloon Ride at Sunrise costs $320-380 USD depending on the company, and yes, it's worth every kyat. Balloons Over Bagan has the best safety record. Book ahead—they only fly during cool months and slots fill quickly.
Ananda Temple stands as Bagan's architectural masterpiece. Built in 1105 AD, its four standing Buddha statues seem to change expression as you approach them. The optical illusion still gives me chills.
Sunset from Shwesandaw Pagoda requires climbing steep steps, but the 360-degree views across the temple plain are unmatched. Arrive 45 minutes before sunset to claim your spot.
E-bike Temple Hopping lets you create your own adventure. I rented one from my hostel for 5,000 kyat ($2.50 USD) per day and spent hours getting wonderfully lost among smaller, crowd-free temples.
Sulamani Temple houses some of Bagan's best-preserved frescoes. Most tourists skip it for more famous sites, which means you'll often have its intricate wall paintings to yourself.
Local Lacquerware Workshop Visit in nearby village shows traditional craftspeople creating Bagan's famous red and gold bowls and boxes. Several workshops along the main road offer free demonstrations.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: Bagan Nyaung U Airport receives flights from Yangon (1 hour, $100-150 USD) and Mandalay (30 minutes, $60-80 USD). Overland, the overnight bus from Yangon takes 10 hours and costs around 15,000 kyat ($7.50 USD). The train is slower but more scenic—12 hours for about the same price.
Getting around locally: E-bikes are the perfect solution for temple hopping. Most guesthouses rent them for 5,000-8,000 kyat per day. Horse carts cost 25,000-30,000 kyat for half-day temple tours, while taxi drivers charge around 40,000 kyat for full-day temple circuits. Everything in Bagan is walkable if you're staying centrally.
Local currency: Myanmar Kyat (MMK). Exchange rate fluctuates wildly but expect roughly 2,000-2,100 kyat per $1 USD. Cash is king here—bring clean, unwrinkled US dollars to exchange at licensed money changers. Some hotels accept cards but add hefty fees.
Average daily budget: Budget travelers can manage on $25-30 USD per day (hostel, street food, e-bike rental). Mid-range comfort runs $50-75 USD daily (nice hotel, restaurant meals, guided tours). Comfortable travel with balloon rides and upscale dining hits $150+ USD per day.
Safety tips: Temple stairs are steep and uneven—wear proper shoes and take your time. Download offline maps since internet can be spotty in remote temple areas. Always carry water and sun protection when temple exploring.
Best Time to Visit Bagan
Peak Season
November through February brings cool, dry weather perfect for temple climbing and hot air balloon rides. Temperatures range from 15-25°C (59-77°F), but this is also when crowds peak and accommodation prices double. Balloon rides operate most consistently during these months.
Shoulder Season (Recommended)
March through May offers the sweet spot I discovered during my visit. Temperatures rise to 30-35°C (86-95°F) but crowds thin dramatically. Balloon companies still operate regularly, hotel prices drop by 30-40%, and you'll have many temples completely to yourself during golden hour.
Avoid
June through October brings monsoon rains and oppressive humidity. Many balloon companies suspend operations entirely, unpaved temple roads become muddy messes, and temple climbing turns unpleasant. Some budget accommodations close completely during peak rainy season in July-August.
On my final morning in Bagan, I climbed Shwesandaw Pagoda one last time to watch sunrise paint the temple plain in shades of amber and gold. An elderly Myanmar woman was already there, quietly placing fresh flowers at a small shrine. She smiled and gestured for me to join her moment of quiet reverence.
That's what Bagan gave me beyond the Instagram-worthy balloon shots and architectural marvels—a profound sense of continuity. For nearly a thousand years, people have been climbing these same steps, watching these same sunrises, finding peace among these ancient stones. I left Myanmar knowing I'd witnessed something far more precious than just another tourist destination. I'd glimpsed the living heartbeat of human devotion.
Sarah has spent the last decade traveling through 60+ countries, writing about culture, food, and the moments that change you. Based between London and wherever her next flight takes her.