Dubrovnik Travel Guide: Beyond the Game of Thrones Crowds
I thought I knew what to expect from Dubrovnik's famous walls until I watched the sunrise paint them gold from my apartment balcony. This medieval marvel offers so much more than its TV fame suggests.
The laundry hanging from medieval balconies caught me off guard. I'd spent months planning my first trip to Dubrovnik, poring over Instagram photos of pristine limestone walls and crystal-clear Adriatic waters, but nobody had prepared me for the sight of colorful towels and bedsheets fluttering against 14th-century stone facades. It was my first morning in the Old Town, and this unexpected glimpse of daily life behind the tourist facade made me smile.
I'd arrived the evening before on a Croatia Airlines flight from Zagreb, taking the Atlas bus (40 kuna, about $6 USD) from the airport to Pile Gate. The moment I stepped off that bus and saw the massive city walls looming in the golden hour light, I understood why this place has captivated travelers for centuries. But it wasn't until I spent five days exploring every narrow alley, swimming in hidden coves, and chatting with locals over morning coffee that I truly grasped what makes this place extraordinary.
Dubrovnik isn't just about those famous walls, though they're undeniably magnificent. It's about discovering a living, breathing medieval city where families have been running the same restaurants for generations, where you can swim in impossibly blue water just minutes from ancient fortresses, and where every sunset feels like a personal performance staged just for you.
Yes, the crowds can be overwhelming during peak season—I learned this the hard way when I got trapped in a sea of cruise passengers near the Rector's Palace. But I also discovered that with the right timing and a few local insights, you can experience the magic of this UNESCO World Heritage site without feeling like you're fighting for space in a theme park.
Where to Eat in Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik's food scene extends far beyond the tourist-trap restaurants lining Stradun—though you'll pay dearly if you stick to those. I found my best meals by wandering the quieter streets and following locals to their favorite spots.
Proto Fish Restaurant has been serving the same families since 1886, and their black risotto (crni rižot) with fresh cuttlefish is worth the 180 kuna ($27 USD) price tag. I watched them prepare it tableside, the rice turning dramatically black from the cuttlefish ink—it tastes far better than it photographs.
Pantarul surprised me with its modern take on Dalmatian cuisine. Their lamb peka, slow-cooked under a metal bell with vegetables, arrives at your table still sizzling. Expect to pay around 200 kuna ($30 USD) per person, but the portions are generous enough to share.
Konoba Dubrava sits just outside Pile Gate and feels like eating in someone's grandmother's kitchen. The gregada (fish stew) comes with chunks of local white fish swimming in a tomato and wine broth that I sopped up with crusty bread. Most mains hover around 120 kuna ($18 USD).
Above 5 Rooftop Restaurant offers stunning views over the Old Town's terracotta roofs, but I came for their take on pašticada—a traditional beef stew with gnocchi that melts in your mouth. Splurge meal at 250 kuna ($37 USD) per person, but the sunset views are included.
D'vino Wine Bar became my nightly ritual, where owner Sasha pours Croatian wines I'd never heard of alongside plates of local cheese and prosciutto. Small plates run 60-80 kuna ($9-12 USD), and Sasha's wine knowledge is worth the price alone.
For quick bites, grab a burek (flaky pastry filled with cheese or meat) from any local bakery for 15 kuna ($2 USD)—I found the best ones at the morning market near Gundulićeva Poljana.
Where to Stay in Dubrovnik
Choosing where to stay in Dubrovnik can make or break your experience, especially during the summer months when accommodation prices soar and availability plummets.
Budget (under $40/night): Villa Dalmacija Hostel in Lapad Peninsula offers clean dorms with air conditioning—crucial during summer—and a 10-minute bus ride (#6) to the Old Town. I met fellow travelers who raved about the communal kitchen and the hostel's help arranging island day trips.
Mid-range ($80–150/night): Apartments Amoret in the Ploče area gave me a perfect balance of location and value. My studio apartment came with a tiny balcony overlooking the harbor, air conditioning that actually worked, and a 5-minute walk to the city walls. The owner, Marija, provided detailed maps and restaurant recommendations that proved invaluable.
Splurge ($200+/night): Hotel Excelsior delivers old-world luxury with modern amenities, perched on the coast with private beach access. I splurged on my last night and understood why celebrities choose this place—waking up to sunrise over Lokrum Island from my sea-view room felt like a dream. The breakfast spread alone justifies the price.
Top Things to Do in Dubrovnik
I thought I'd seen Dubrovnik's beauty from every angle until I discovered activities that most tourists walk right past.
Walking the City Walls remains essential—arrive at 8 AM when gates open to avoid crowds. The complete circuit takes 1-2 hours, and I stopped frequently to photograph the terracotta rooftops and azure sea. Entry costs 200 kuna ($30 USD) but includes access to Fort Lovrijenac.
Kayaking to Lokrum Island offered a completely different perspective. I paddled from Pile Bay around the medieval walls, then explored Lokrum's abandoned monastery and botanical gardens. The nude beach on Lokrum's far side caught me by surprise—definitely not mentioned in the tour brochures.
Sunset at Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ requires a cable car ride (150 kuna round trip, $22 USD) but rewards you with panoramic views over the entire coastline. I packed a picnic dinner and watched the Old Town's lights twinkle to life below.
Swimming at Banje Beach provides crystal-clear water just steps from the city walls. The beach club rents loungers, but I found free space on the rocks to the left. The water stays warm enough for swimming from May through October.
Exploring the Rector's Palace Museum taught me about Dubrovnik's fascinating history as an independent republic. Most tourists rush through, but I spent an hour examining the historical documents and learning about the city's diplomatic relationships with the Ottoman Empire.
Taking the ferry to Mljet National Park (day trip, 200 kuna/$30 USD) revealed dense forests, saltwater lakes, and a 12th-century Benedictine monastery on a tiny island within a lake—a hidden world that felt completely removed from Dubrovnik's medieval stones.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: Dubrovnik Airport sits 20 kilometers south of the city. Croatia Airlines connects directly to major European cities, while budget carriers like Ryanair serve the route seasonally. The Atlas airport shuttle runs every 30 minutes to Pile Gate for 40 kuna ($6 USD). Overland, buses connect from Split (4.5 hours, 150 kuna/$22 USD) and Zagreb (11 hours, 300 kuna/$45 USD).
Getting around locally: The Old Town is entirely walkable, but summer heat makes the uphill climbs brutal. City buses (#1A, #1B, #6) connect the Old Town to Lapad and other neighborhoods for 15 kuna ($2 USD) per ride. I bought a day pass for 30 kuna ($4.50 USD) when exploring beyond the walls. Taxis are expensive—expect 100+ kuna for short trips.
Local currency: Croatian kuna (HRK). Exchange rate fluctuates around 6.5-7 kuna per USD. Cards work everywhere in tourist areas, but small family restaurants and markets prefer cash. ATMs are plentiful but charge foreign transaction fees.
Average daily budget: Budget travelers: 400-500 kuna ($60-75 USD) including hostel, local meals, and public transport. Mid-range: 800-1000 kuna ($120-150 USD) with apartment rental and restaurant dinners. Comfortable: 1300+ kuna ($200+ USD) for hotels and splurge experiences.
Safety tips: Pickpocketing increases during cruise ship arrivals—I kept valuables in a money belt during peak hours. The limestone streets become dangerously slippery when wet, especially the polished Stradun. Summer temperatures can hit 35°C (95°F)—carry water and seek shade frequently to avoid heat exhaustion.
Best Time to Visit Dubrovnik
Peak Season
July and August bring perfect weather—clear skies, 28°C (82°F) temperatures, and ideal swimming conditions. But they also bring cruise ships disgorging thousands of passengers daily, hotel rates that triple, and restaurant waits exceeding an hour. I visited in late July and felt overwhelmed by the crowds, especially between 10 AM-4 PM when cruise passengers flood the Old Town.
Shoulder Season (Recommended)
May-June and September-October offer Dubrovnik at its finest. Weather stays warm enough for swimming, crowds thin dramatically, and prices drop by 30-40%. I returned in September and enjoyed 25°C (77°F) days, warm sea temperatures, and the luxury of photographing famous spots without hordes of tourists. Restaurant terraces become pleasant again, and locals emerge from their summer hibernation.
Avoid
November through March sees many restaurants and attractions close entirely. Rain becomes frequent, temperatures drop to 10-15°C (50-59°F), and the famous beaches lose their appeal. Ferry schedules to islands reduce significantly, limiting day trip options. However, if you're interested in the city's history and architecture without beach activities, winter offers solitude and dramatically lower prices.
My last morning in Dubrovnik, I climbed to the same spot on the city walls where I'd taken my first photos five days earlier. But this time, instead of frantically snapping pictures, I simply sat and watched the city wake up below me. Shopkeepers rolled up their shutters along Stradun, fishing boats puttered out of the old harbor, and that same laundry appeared on medieval balconies.
Dubrovnik gave me something I hadn't expected—patience. In a world of instant everything, this ancient city taught me to slow down, to notice details, to savor moments instead of just capturing them. Yes, the crowds can be maddening and the prices shocking, but underneath the tourist veneer beats the heart of a place that has survived wars, earthquakes, and centuries of change. That resilience is infectious, and I left feeling oddly optimistic about preserving beautiful things in our chaotic world.
Sarah has spent the last decade traveling through 60+ countries, writing about culture, food, and the moments that change you. Based between London and wherever her next flight takes her.