Dubrovnik Travel Guide: Game of Thrones and Beyond
Dubrovnik's old town is enclosed by medieval walls that have stood since the 13th century, above an Adriatic so clear you can see the bottom in 10 metres of water. It is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and — since Game of Thrones used it as King's Landing — one of the most visited places on Earth relative to its size.
I walked through the Pile Gate into Dubrovnik's old town on a Wednesday morning in late September and stopped immediately. The Stradun — the main limestone street running through the heart of the old city — was almost empty. The morning light reflected off the pale stone in a way that made the whole street seem to glow from within. Two cats were sleeping on the steps of a church. A woman was sweeping her doorstep.
This is the Dubrovnik that exists before 9am and after 6pm, when the cruise ships have left. Between those hours in July and August, the same street holds more people per square metre than most cities manage on their busiest days. The transformation is almost comedic — an ancient city that shuts down its history for a shift change.
The old town is genuinely extraordinary. The medieval Republic of Ragusa, which Dubrovnik was until Napoleon arrived in 1808, was one of the most sophisticated city-states in history — a maritime power that survived between Venice and the Ottoman Empire through a combination of diplomacy, trade, and fortifications so well-built they still stand intact. Walking the city walls gives you both the best views in Croatia and a direct experience of the engineering logic that kept the city independent for centuries.
The Game of Thrones connection is real and unavoidable. Tours of filming locations run every hour. I did one and found it genuinely interesting — the show used the city's actual geography rather than constructing sets, which means understanding Westeros helps you understand Dubrovnik's spatial logic.
Where to Eat in Dubrovnik
Restaurant 360 on the city walls serves the most ambitious food in Dubrovnik — contemporary Croatian cuisine in a medieval setting above the harbour. The black risotto with cuttlefish and truffle is extraordinary. Around €60-80 / $65-87 per person. Book ahead.
Konoba Kolona on the island of Lokrum (10-minute ferry) serves grilled fish and Dalmatian peka (slow-cooked lamb under an iron bell) with no tourist markup. Around €30-40 / $33-43 per person. Take the morning ferry, eat lunch, explore the island, return for sunset.
Dolce Vita gelato on the Stradun makes the best ice cream in Croatia. €2.50 per scoop. Essential.
Buffet Škola is the best-value lunch in the old town — a hole-in-the-wall serving Dalmatian home cooking at prices untouched by tourism. Peka, grilled octopus salad, and fresh bread under €15 / $16 per person. Open weekday lunches only.
Any fish restaurant in Cavtat (20 minutes south by ferry) — the charming village away from Dubrovnik's tourist premium serves the same Adriatic seafood at 40% lower prices.
Where to Stay in Dubrovnik
Budget (under €70/night): Staying outside the old town walls cuts costs dramatically. Fresh Sheets Hostel in Lapad Bay runs €25-35 for dorms, €65 for private rooms, with a regular bus to the old town.
Mid-range (€150-250/night): Hotel Stari Grad inside the old town offers the full experience — a 400-year-old building, a rooftop terrace with harbour views, and walking distance to everything. Around €180-220/night. Limited rooms so book ahead.
Splurge (€500+/night): Villa Orsula on the coastal road south of the old town is the most beautifully situated hotel in Dubrovnik — a cliff-edge property with a seawater pool, private boat dock, and rooms with direct Adriatic views. From €520/night.
Top Things to Do in Dubrovnik
Walk the city walls at opening time. The 2km wall circuit opens at 8am (€35 / $38 entry). The first hour offers the walls almost to yourself and the best morning light on the old town rooftops. Allows 1.5 hours minimum.
Take the cable car to Mount Srd. The 778-metre summit above the city offers the defining panorama — the old town, the islands, and the Adriatic in every direction. €18 / $20 return. Sunset from the summit is exceptional.
Swim at Banje Beach and Buza Bar. Banje Beach just outside the Ploče Gate is the best beach near the old town. After swimming, scramble up the cliff to Buza Bar — a drinks-only bar built into a hole in the city wall, serving drinks directly above the sea. The most atmospheric bar in Croatia.
Day trip to the Elaphiti Islands. The three islands of Šipan, Lopud, and Koločep are 20-45 minutes by ferry and offer Dubrovnik's coastline without its crowds. Lopud's Šunj Beach is the best sandy beach in the region.
Visit early morning or evening only in summer. This is the most important piece of advice for Dubrovnik. The old town between 9am-6pm in July and August is functionally unpleasant. Before 8am and after 6pm it is magical.
Getting There & Around
Flights: Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) has direct summer flights from many European cities and US seasonal services. From the US, connect through London, Frankfurt, or Amsterdam. Return flights from New York from $600-900.
Getting around: The old town is walkable in 20 minutes end to end. Buses connect to the rest of the city cheaply (€2 / $2.20 per journey). Ferries to the islands run from the old port. Water taxis are expensive but scenic.
Currency: Croatian Kuna was replaced by the Euro in January 2023. Cards accepted widely. Carry some cash for smaller restaurants and markets.
Daily budget: Budget €60-90 / $65-98 per day. Mid-range €150-230 / $163-250. Comfortable €300-450 / $326-490.
Safety: Dubrovnik is very safe. The main hazards are the limestone streets (extremely slippery when wet — wear appropriate shoes) and the summer heat on the exposed city walls.
Best Time to Visit Dubrovnik
Shoulder Season — Recommended (May, June, September, October)
The absolute best times. May and June bring warm sea temperatures, manageable crowds, and the city functioning as an actual place rather than a tourist holding pen. September is equally good — the summer visitors leave after the first week and the Adriatic is at its warmest.
Peak Season (July — August)
The city is overwhelmed. Cruise ships dock daily, the streets are impassable at midday, and prices are at their annual peak. If you must come in summer, stay outside the walls and visit the old town only in early morning and evening.
Winter (November — March)
Many restaurants and hotels close entirely. The city walls may be restricted. But Dubrovnik in the low season — empty streets, winter light on the limestone, cats sleeping on every step — is a genuinely different and beautiful experience.
On my last evening I climbed to the city walls for the second time, arriving at 6:30pm as the last of the cruise ship visitors were leaving. By 7pm the Stradun below was returning to itself — locals appearing, the evening passegiata beginning, café tables filling with people who lived here.
I walked the full circuit as the sun went down and the city lights came on below. The Adriatic turned from blue to silver. A fishing boat crossed the harbour entrance. The walls that had stood for seven centuries stood still. Dubrovnik, stripped of its daytime crowds, revealed itself as what it had always been: one of the most beautiful small cities in the world, quite capable of existing without an audience.
Marco combines his passion for photography and storytelling to bring destinations to life for readers around the world. He has contributed to Condé Nast Traveler, Lonely Planet, and National Geographic Traveler.