Iceland's Ring Road: My Epic 7-Day Journey Around the Island
I spent seven unforgettable days driving Iceland's legendary Ring Road, chasing waterfalls and dodging sheep on Route 1. Here's everything you need to know about this 1,332-kilometer adventure around one of the world's most dramatic islands.
I'll never forget the moment I first saw Kirkjufell mountain reflected in the still waters near Grundarfjörður. After three days of driving Iceland's Ring Road, I thought I'd seen it all—the thundering Gullfoss waterfall, the otherworldly Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, the stark beauty of the Eastfjords. But this perfect pyramid of rock, bathed in the soft light of an Icelandic summer evening, made me pull over and just stare.
Route 1, as locals call it, is Iceland's lifeline—a 1,332-kilometer ribbon of asphalt that circles the entire island. What started as a practical necessity has become one of the world's great road trips, offering travelers an almost absurdly concentrated dose of natural wonders. Waterfalls that dwarf buildings. Glaciers the size of small countries. Volcanic landscapes that look like Mars.
I spent seven days making this circuit in a rented Dacia Duster, sleeping in everything from Reykjavik guesthouses to countryside farms. The Ring Road isn't just about the destinations—though they're spectacular. It's about the journey itself, the freedom to stop whenever something catches your eye, and the gradual realization that Iceland packs more dramatic scenery per square kilometer than anywhere else on Earth.
This isn't a trip you can rush. Sure, you could theoretically drive the entire Ring Road in 17 hours of non-stop driving. But you'd miss the point entirely. Iceland rewards the patient traveler, the one who's willing to take the gravel detour to that remote lighthouse, or spend an extra hour watching seals play in a black sand bay.
Where to Eat Along Iceland's Ring Road
Eating well on the Ring Road requires some planning, as restaurants can be sparse between towns. I learned this the hard way when I arrived in Höfn at 9 PM to find most places closed. Here are the spots that made my journey memorable:
Pakkhús in Höfn is the lobster capital of Iceland, and this cozy restaurant proves why. Their langoustine soup (3,890 ISK, about $28 USD) arrives steaming hot with chunks of sweet local lobster that melt in your mouth. Book ahead—I nearly missed out.
Systrakaffi in Kirkjubæjarklaustur saved my day when I was starving after exploring Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon. This family-run cafe serves the best lamb soup (2,200 ISK) I've had anywhere, thick with tender meat and root vegetables. Their homemade bread is perfect for sopping up every drop.
Vogafjós Farm Resort near Lake Mývatn offers a unique experience—dining next to the cow barn. I watched Holstein cows through floor-to-ceiling windows while enjoying their farm-to-table dinner (4,500 ISK). The beef is literally from the farm, and their geothermal-baked rye bread is unlike anything else.
Kaffi Krús in Seyðisfjörður surprised me with excellent fish and chips (2,890 ISK) in this tiny rainbow-painted town. The cod was perfectly flaky, and their hand-cut fries actually tasted like potatoes.
Bjórgarðurinn in Akureyri serves the best burger in northern Iceland (2,650 ISK). Their "Akureyri Special" comes loaded with local ingredients and pairs perfectly with an Einstök beer.
Pro tip: Stock up on supplies at Bonus supermarkets (look for the pink pig logo). Their hot dogs from the deli counter cost just 199 ISK and make perfect roadside lunches.
Where to Stay on Iceland's Ring Road
Accommodation along the Ring Road ranges from budget camping to luxury lodges, but book everything in advance. I learned this lesson when I had to drive an extra 100 kilometers because my preferred guesthouse was full.
Budget (under $30/night): HI Hostels dot the Ring Road at key points like Höfn, Egilsstaðir, and Akureyri. I stayed at HI Höfn and loved the communal kitchen where I met fellow travelers. Dorm beds run 4,200 ISK ($30), and the locations are perfect for early morning departures to catch golden hour light.
Mid-range ($80-120/night): Hotel Rangá near Hella offers comfortable rooms (16,900 ISK) with potential Northern Lights viewing in winter. The staff helped me plan my southern route, and their restaurant served excellent Icelandic lamb. The location puts you perfectly between Geysir and Vík.
Splurge ($200+/night): Hotel Budir on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is worth every krona (28,500 ISK) for its dramatic black church setting and world-class restaurant. I splurged on my final night and watched the sunset paint Snæfellsjökull glacier golden while soaking in their outdoor hot tubs. The isolation makes you feel like you're at the edge of the world.
Top Things to Do on Iceland's Ring Road
The Ring Road connects Iceland's greatest hits with plenty of surprises in between. After seven days of stops, detours, and photo breaks, these experiences stood out:
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon is Iceland's most photographed spot for good reason. I spent two hours watching icebergs the size of houses drift toward the ocean, some carrying sleeping seals. The adjacent Diamond Beach, where ice chunks wash up on black sand, looks like nature's jewelry display.
Skógafoss waterfall roars 60 meters down with such force that rainbows dance in its mist. Climb the 527 steps to the top for views across the southern coastline. I got soaked taking photos at the base, but the power is addictive.
Dettifoss in northern Iceland humbled me completely. Europe's most powerful waterfall thunders into Jökulsárgljúfur canyon with the force of freight train. The 45-minute drive on Route 862 is rough gravel, but hearing this beast from a kilometer away made every bump worthwhile.
Lake Mývatn offers a geological wonderland of pseudo-craters, lava fields, and bubbling mud pools. I spent a full day exploring Dimmuborgir's lava formations and soaking in the Mývatn Nature Baths (5,000 ISK)—like the Blue Lagoon but with fewer crowds.
Westfjords detour to Dynjandi waterfall is where I found solitude. This seven-tiered cascade tumbles down the mountainside like a wedding veil, and I had it completely to myself for an hour. The 40-kilometer detour from the Ring Road is absolutely worth it.
Reykjanes Peninsula's Kleifarvatn lake rarely makes guidebooks, but this volcanic crater lake surrounded by moss-covered lava fields felt like visiting an alien planet. Steam vents hiss nearby at Seltún geothermal area, and the drive takes just 30 minutes from Keflavik Airport.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: Keflavik International Airport (KEF) sits 50 kilometers from Reykjavik and handles all international flights. Flybus shuttles (3,200 ISK) connect to the city center, but I recommend picking up your rental car directly at the airport to start the Ring Road immediately. Icelandair and PLAY offer the most frequent connections from North America and Europe.
Getting around locally: Renting a car is essential for the Ring Road. I paid 8,900 ISK per day for a Dacia Duster from Blue Car Rental, which handled gravel roads perfectly. 4WD isn't mandatory in summer, but adds confidence on F-roads and highland detours. Gas costs about 219 ISK per liter, and stations accept cards everywhere. Download offline maps—cell service disappears in remote areas.
Local currency: Icelandic Króna (ISK) with roughly 140 ISK = $1 USD. Cards work everywhere, even for coffee and parking meters. I carried just 5,000 ISK in cash for emergencies and never needed more. Tipping isn't expected.
Average daily budget:
- →Budget: $80-100 (camping, self-catering, basic car)
- →Mid-range: $150-200 (guesthouses, mix of restaurants and groceries)
- →Comfortable: $300+ (hotels, restaurants, activities)
Safety tips: Check road conditions at road.is before driving—Icelandic weather changes rapidly. Keep your headlights on always (it's the law). Never leave the Ring Road for F-roads without a 4WD vehicle. Pack extra food and warm clothes; I got caught in an unexpected snowstorm in June near Mývatn.
Best Time to Visit Iceland's Ring Road
Peak Season (June-August)
Summer brings 20+ hours of daylight, lupine flowers carpeting the landscape, and all highland roads accessible. Temperatures reach 15-20°C, perfect for camping and hiking. Expect crowds at major attractions and book accommodation months ahead. I visited in July and loved the endless daylight for photography, but paid premium prices everywhere.
Shoulder Season (April-May, September-October)
This is my recommended window for the Ring Road. May offers spring energy with fewer crowds, while September delivers autumn colors and potential Northern Lights. Weather remains unpredictable, but most roads stay open. Accommodation prices drop 30-40%, and attractions feel more intimate. I met locals in September who said it's their favorite time to explore their own country.
Avoid (November-March)
Winter Ring Road driving requires serious preparation and experience. Daylight lasts just 4-5 hours in December, highland roads close completely, and storms can strand travelers for days. If you do attempt winter driving, rent a 4WD with studded tires and carry emergency supplies. Many accommodations outside Reykjavik close entirely.
Three weeks after completing Iceland's Ring Road, I still dream about that drive. Not just the famous stops that fill Instagram feeds, but the quiet moments between destinations. Pulling over to watch Icelandic horses gallop across green fields. Discovering an unnamed waterfall while taking a wrong turn near Egilsstaðir. Sharing coffee with a farmer who invited me into his kitchen when my car broke down outside Blönduós.
The Ring Road taught me that Iceland's real magic isn't just in its landscapes—though they're genuinely breathtaking—but in how this remote island makes you feel simultaneously insignificant and deeply connected to the planet. Every curve reveals something new. Every stop reminds you why some journeys can't be rushed. Pack your patience along with your camera. Iceland's Ring Road will reward both.
Elena has called five different countries home and writes about slow travel, local culture, and finding magic in everyday places. She is currently based in Lisbon.