Palawan, Philippines: Complete Travel Guide 2024
I watched a sea turtle glide beneath my kayak in El Nido's turquoise waters, and understood why they call Palawan the Philippines' last frontier. This isn't just another tropical paradise – it's where adventure meets untouched beauty.
The bangka boat creaked as we navigated through the needle-sharp limestone karsts of El Nido's Bacuit Bay, and I realized I'd been holding my breath for the past five minutes. Not from fear – from pure, unadulterated awe. The water below was so clear I could count the fish swimming twenty feet down, while towering cliffs rose around us like ancient cathedrals.
Palawan hit me differently than anywhere else in the Philippines. Maybe it was the way the morning mist clung to the jungle canopy in Puerto Princesa, or how the locals in Coron still waved from their stilted houses as our boat puttered past. This isn't Boracay with its crowds and fire dancers. This is raw, largely untamed beauty that makes you whisper instead of shout.
After three weeks island-hopping from Puerto Princesa to El Nido to Coron, I understood why National Geographic called it the world's best island. Palawan doesn't just offer pristine beaches and world-class diving – it serves up experiences that rewire your definition of paradise. The underground river that stretches for miles through complete darkness. Lagoons so hidden you need to swim through cave openings to find them. Coral reefs that survived World War II bombings and now host some of the planet's richest marine life.
What surprised me most wasn't the postcard scenery – I expected that. It was discovering that this 400-kilometer sliver of land bridging the South China Sea and Sulu Sea still pulses with authentic Filipino culture, where tricycle drivers become your tour guides and every meal feels like a family gathering.
Where to Eat in Palawan
Palawan's food scene mirrors its geography – a stunning mix of influences where Malay spices meet Spanish techniques and Chinese flavors, all tied together with the freshest seafood I've ever tasted.
El Nido Corner in El Nido proper serves the best kinilaw (Filipino ceviche) I encountered anywhere in the Philippines. Their version with fresh tanigue fish, coconut milk, and calamansi will ruin you for all other ceviches. Around ₱350 per person for a feast.
La Plage Restaurant on Nacpan Beach deserves the hype. I watched them grill my lapu-lapu whole while my feet stayed buried in white sand. Their coconut curry with fresh crab runs about ₱450, and the sunset views are complimentary.
Kusina ni Tito Ernie in Puerto Princesa looks like nothing from the street – just plastic chairs and fluorescent lights. But locals pack this place for crocodile sisig and the most tender adobo sa gata I've tasted. Expect ₱200-300 per person and prepare to wait.
Bistro Coron in Coron Town elevated Filipino comfort food beyond my expectations. Their kare-kare with oxtail practically melted off the bone, paired with house-made bagoong that had the perfect funk. Around ₱400 per person.
Skip the resort restaurants and hunt down the street food stalls along Rizal Avenue in El Nido after 6 PM. The grilled pusit (squid) for ₱60 beats anything you'll find in air conditioning.
Where to Stay in Palawan
Choosing where to stay in Palawan depends entirely on which version of paradise you're seeking – backpacker adventure, comfortable exploration, or complete tropical luxury.
Budget (under $30/night): Mad Monkey Hostel El Nido nailed the balance between social atmosphere and actual sleep. The dorms stay cool with proper AC, and I met some of my best travel companions over their nightly barbecues. Location puts you walking distance from boat tour operators.
Mid-range ($50–100/night): Spin Designer Hostel in El Nido offers boutique hotel vibes without the price tag. I loved my private room with its rain shower and balcony facing the karsts. The rooftop bar became my evening ritual spot, and the staff arranged all my island tours seamlessly.
Splurge ($150+/night): El Nido Resorts Pangulasian Island justified every peso. My overwater villa came with a private deck where I watched parrotfish during breakfast and bioluminescent plankton at dinner. The resort sits on its own island, meaning pristine beaches and dive sites that feel completely private.
Top Things to Do in Palawan
Palawan rewards the adventurous with experiences that exist nowhere else on Earth – from underground rivers that stretch for miles to lagoons hidden behind limestone walls.
Puerto Princesa Underground River lives up to its UNESCO World Heritage status. The 8.2-kilometer river system winds through cathedral-like chambers filled with stalactites that look like frozen waterfalls. Book tours through your hotel – they handle the permits and boat transfers from Sabang.
El Nido Island Hopping Tours operate on a simple system: Tours A, B, C, and D each visit different combinations of lagoons and beaches. Tour A hits the Big Lagoon and Secret Lagoon, while Tour C takes you to Hidden Beach and Matinloc Shrine. I recommend Tours A and C for first-timers.
Coron's Japanese Shipwreck Diving offers some of the world's best wreck diving. Twelve Japanese warships sunk during WWII now create artificial reefs teeming with coral and fish. The Irako wreck at 40 meters challenged my advanced certification, while the shallower Okikawa Maru works perfectly for beginners.
Kayangan Lake in Coron earns its reputation as the Philippines' cleanest lake. The 10-minute hike rewards you with mirror-still waters surrounded by limestone cliffs. Arrive early – the tour groups descend after 10 AM.
Nacpan Beach stretches for 4 kilometers of powdery white sand backed by swaying palms. Unlike El Nido's crowded beaches, Nacpan feels almost deserted. Rent a motorbike (₱500/day) for the 45-minute ride from El Nido town.
Long Beach in San Vicente remains Palawan's best-kept secret. This 14-kilometer stretch of pristine coastline sees maybe 20 visitors per day. The town has basic accommodations and incredible seafood, but zero tourist infrastructure – exactly why I loved it.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: Puerto Princesa Airport (PPS) serves as Palawan's main gateway, with direct flights from Manila (₱4,000-8,000), Cebu (₱6,000-10,000), and Clark (₱5,000-9,000). Busuanga Airport near Coron offers fewer but sometimes cheaper Manila connections. I booked through Cebu Pacific and PAL Express for the most reliable schedules.
Getting around locally: Tricycles dominate short-distance transport in all towns (₱15-50 per ride). For longer distances, jeepneys connect Puerto Princesa to El Nido (6 hours, ₱500) daily at 7 AM and 1 PM. Van services cost more (₱700) but finish the journey an hour faster. Island hopping requires joining group tours (₱1,200-1,500) or chartering private boats (₱6,000-8,000 for 6-8 people).
Local currency: Philippine Peso (PHP). Exchange rates hover around ₱56-58 per USD. Cash rules everywhere outside resort areas – bring enough pesos from Manila or Puerto Princesa. BDO and BPI ATMs work reliably in major towns but disappear on smaller islands.
Average daily budget: Budget travelers manage on ₱2,000-2,500 daily (dorm beds, street food, group tours). Mid-range comfort requires ₱4,000-6,000 (private rooms, restaurant meals, some tours). Luxury experiences start at ₱10,000+ daily (resort stays, private boats, fine dining).
Safety tips: Boat operators sometimes oversell tours – confirm passenger limits before paying. Motorbike rentals rarely include helmets, but traffic police have started enforcement. Keep photocopies of your passport separate from originals; some dive operators require ID deposits.
Best Time to Visit Palawan
Peak Season
December through April delivers Palawan's perfect weather window. Expect daily highs around 30°C (86°F) with minimal rainfall and calm seas ideal for island hopping. This coincides with Filipino holidays and international vacation schedules, meaning higher prices and crowded attractions. Book accommodations months in advance.
Shoulder Season (Recommended)
May and November offer the sweet spot I discovered accidentally. Weather remains largely dry with occasional afternoon showers that cool everything down beautifully. Crowds thin significantly – I had entire beaches to myself in late May. Prices drop 20-30% across accommodations and tours, and boat operators become much more flexible with schedules.
Avoid
June through October brings monsoon season with daily downpours and rough seas. Many island hopping tours cancel due to dangerous conditions, and some resorts close entirely. I got stranded in El Nido for three extra days in August when flights couldn't land due to storms. The rain creates stunning jungle scenery, but limits outdoor activities significantly.
Three months later, I still dream about Palawan's hidden lagoons. Not the Instagram-famous ones everyone photographs, but the unnamed cove I stumbled into while kayaking alone near Helicopter Island, where the only sounds were water lapping against limestone and my own quiet breathing.
Palawan changed how I think about island destinations. It's not just another tropical escape – it's a reminder that our planet still holds places that can leave you speechless. Whether you're swimming through underwater cathedrals in the Puerto Princesa river, watching sunset paint El Nido's karsts purple and gold, or sharing stories with fisherfolk in Coron, this island demands presence. It forces you to put down your phone and simply exist in moments so beautiful they border on surreal. Pack light, bring waterproof everything, and prepare to fall completely, irreversibly in love.
Sarah has spent the last decade traveling through 60+ countries, writing about culture, food, and the moments that change you. Based between London and wherever her next flight takes her.