Reykjavik, Iceland: A Writer's Guide to the Arctic Capital
Iceland's capital surprises visitors with colorful houses against dramatic skies and a creative energy that defies its remote location. I discovered a city where geothermal energy heats everything and the locals swim outdoors year-round.
I'll never forget stepping off the plane at Keflavík at 6 AM in November, expecting darkness, only to be greeted by the most ethereal blue twilight I'd ever seen. The air hit my lungs like ice water, clean and sharp in a way that made me immediately understand why Icelanders bottle their water for export. This wasn't just cold—it was crystalline.
The bus ride into Reykjavik revealed a landscape that seemed pulled from another planet. Steam rose from fields of black lava rock, and in the distance, the city's colorful rooftops appeared like a child's toy village scattered across the horizon. What struck me most was the silence. Not emptiness, but a profound quiet that made every sound—the bus engine, my own breathing—feel amplified.
Reykjavik defies every expectation you might have about a capital city. With just 130,000 residents, it feels more like a large town, yet it pulses with an energy and creativity that rivals cities ten times its size. I found myself constantly surprised: by the woman swimming laps in an outdoor pool while snow fell around her, by the incredible Northern Lights dancing over downtown, by the way locals casually mentioned their weekend trips to Greenland.
This is a place where the extraordinary becomes ordinary, where nature and urban life exist in perfect, sometimes surreal harmony. After five visits over the past decade, I'm still discovering new corners of this remarkable Arctic capital.
Where to Eat in Reykjavik
Reykjavik's food scene has exploded in recent years, transforming from a place where fermented shark was the main attraction to a Nordic culinary destination that rivals Copenhagen. I've eaten my way through the city more times than I care to admit, and these are the places that keep drawing me back.
Dill Restaurant is Iceland's first Michelin-starred establishment, and chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason creates magic with local ingredients. The seven-course tasting menu featuring Icelandic lamb with wild herbs runs around 15,900 ISK ($115 USD) and is worth every krona. Book weeks ahead.
Messinn serves what I consider the best seafood in Reykjavik, tucked away on Lækjargata street. Their pan-fried fish with sweet potatoes and salad comes in generous portions for about 3,200 ISK ($23 USD). The Arctic char is exceptional, but get there early—they don't take reservations.
Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur is the hot dog stand that stopped Bill Clinton in his tracks. Located near the harbor at Tryggvagata, their lamb-and-pork dogs with crispy onions cost just 350 ISK ($2.50 USD). Order yours "eina með öllu" (one with everything) like I learned from the locals.
Café Loki sits directly across from Hallgrímskirkja church and specializes in traditional Icelandic food that won't terrify tourists. Their rye bread ice cream sounds bizarre but tastes incredible, and a full traditional meal runs about 2,800 ISK ($20 USD).
Kopar offers modern Icelandic cuisine with harbor views from the Old Harbor area. Their lobster soup became my cold-weather obsession, priced at 2,900 ISK ($21 USD) for a bowl that could feed two people.
For quick bites, hit the weekend flea market at Kolaportið where vendors sell traditional dried fish that locals snack on like potato chips—an acquired taste that grew on me by day three.
Where to Stay in Reykjavik
Reykjavik's accommodation scene ranges from backpacker hostels to design hotels, though nothing here comes particularly cheap by international standards.
Budget (under $30/night): KEX Hostel on Skúlagata street occupies a converted biscuit factory and maintains the coolest atmosphere of any hostel I've stayed in worldwide. The common areas buzz with international travelers planning northern lights tours, and the attached bar serves excellent craft cocktails. Dorm beds start around 4,200 ISK ($30 USD).
Mid-range ($50–100/night): Hotel Frón sits right on Laugavegur, Reykjavik's main shopping street, putting you in the heart of everything. The rooms are small but efficiently designed in that Scandinavian way, and the breakfast includes proper Icelandic yogurt. Expect to pay around 12,000 ISK ($85 USD) per night for a double.
Splurge ($150+/night): Hotel Borg is Reykjavik's first luxury hotel, dating to 1930, and it shows in the Art Deco details and old-world service. Located right on Austurvöllur square, you're steps from parliament and the cathedral. The rooms feature heated bathroom floors—essential when it's -10°C outside. Rates start around 25,000 ISK ($180 USD), but the location and character justify the cost.
Top Things to Do in Reykjavik
Reykjavik rewards travelers who balance the must-see sights with spontaneous wandering through neighborhoods where every house seems painted in a different bright color.
Hallgrímskirkja Church dominates the city skyline with its rocket-ship architecture. Take the elevator to the top for 360-degree views that stretch to distant glaciers on clear days. The ticket costs 1,000 ISK ($7 USD) and the perspective helps you understand Reykjavik's layout.
Blue Lagoon gets all the attention, but Laugardalslaug public pool offers a more authentic experience with locals. I spent hours in the hot tubs listening to Icelanders debate politics in the 40°C water while snow fell around us. Entry costs just 950 ISK ($7 USD).
Harpa Concert Hall looks like a giant crystal rising from the harbor, and the architecture alone justifies a visit. Check their schedule—I caught an incredible performance by the Iceland Symphony Orchestra for 3,500 ISK ($25 USD).
The National Museum tells Iceland's story from Viking settlement to modern independence, and the medieval artifacts rival anything I've seen in Europe. Admission runs 2,000 ISK ($14 USD) and you'll need at least two hours.
Tjörnin Lake in the city center attracts massive flocks of birds, even in winter. I discovered that locals take this pond seriously—they've installed geothermal heating to keep parts ice-free for the ducks and swans year-round.
Grandi District near the Old Harbor has transformed from industrial area to creative hub. Most tourists miss the Marshall House, a former fish factory turned cultural center with rotating art exhibitions, vintage shops, and the best coffee in Reykjavik at Kaffivagninn.
Getting There & Getting Around
How to arrive: Keflavík International Airport sits 50km from Reykjavik, connected by regular Flybus shuttles that cost 2,990 ISK ($21 USD) and take 45 minutes. The bus stops at BSÍ terminal downtown, with hotel transfers available for an extra fee. Taxis cost around 15,000 ISK ($108 USD)—only worth it if you're splitting with others.
Getting around locally: Reykjavik is entirely walkable within the city center. The Strætó bus system covers outer neighborhoods for 490 ISK ($3.50 USD) per ride, though I rarely needed it. Rental bikes work well in summer, but winter ice makes walking safer. Taxis are expensive—expect 2,000 ISK ($14 USD) minimum for short trips.
Local currency: Icelandic króna (ISK) currently trades around 140 ISK to 1 USD. Credit cards work everywhere, even for small purchases like coffee or hot dogs. I carried minimal cash and never had problems. Many places actually prefer cards over cash.
Average daily budget: Budget travelers can manage on 8,000 ISK ($57 USD) with hostel beds, grocery food, and free walking tours. Mid-range comfort requires 15,000 ISK ($107 USD) including decent meals and attractions. Comfortable travel with nice restaurants and hotels runs 25,000+ ISK ($180+ USD) daily.
Safety tips: Reykjavik feels remarkably safe even at night, but weather poses the real risk. Download the 112 Iceland app—it works even without cell coverage and can summon help with GPS coordinates. Always check weather forecasts before venturing outside the city, as conditions change rapidly. Keep extra layers in your daypack even for short walks.
Best Time to Visit Reykjavik
Peak Season
June through August brings nearly 24 hours of daylight, temperatures reaching 15°C (59°F), and crowds of tourists. Hotels cost double their winter rates, and popular restaurants require reservations weeks ahead. The midnight sun creates surreal experiences, but you'll pay premium prices and fight crowds at major attractions.
Shoulder Season (Recommended)
September to November and March to May offer the perfect balance. I particularly love October when autumn colors pop against the dramatic skies, temperatures hover around 5°C (41°F), and the Northern Lights season begins. Hotel rates drop significantly, restaurants have availability, and you'll experience Reykjavik more like a local.
Avoid
December through February brings only 4-5 hours of daylight and temperatures around -1°C (30°F). While this creates magical Northern Lights opportunities, the limited daylight makes sightseeing challenging. Some attractions reduce hours, and the constant darkness can feel oppressive if you're not prepared for it.
Standing in Reykjavik's city center at midnight in June, watching the sun hover just above the horizon while locals strolled casually in t-shirts, I understood something fundamental about this place. Iceland doesn't just exist at the edge of the world geographically—it exists at the edge of what seems possible.
This is a country that harnesses the Earth's core to heat entire cities, where people swim outdoors in winter, where creativity flourishes despite—or perhaps because of—the isolation. Reykjavik gave me a new appreciation for how humans adapt and thrive in the most unlikely places, creating beauty and culture that rivals anywhere on Earth. Pack extra layers, bring an open mind, and prepare to have your assumptions about what a capital city can be completely redefined.
Sarah has spent the last decade traveling through 60+ countries, writing about culture, food, and the moments that change you. Based between London and wherever her next flight takes her.